How to Install and Swap Keycaps on Your Attack Shark Mechanical Keyboard

Quick answer

Power the keyboard off, pull each cap straight up with a wire keycap puller, and press the replacement cap down until it seats flat on the switch stem. Work one row at a time, support the switch housing with your other hand, and test every key before you finish. Most cap damage comes from pulling at an angle, not from the caps themselves.

Swapping keycaps is the cheapest way to change how a mechanical keyboard feels and looks, and it takes about 20 to 40 minutes on a full-size board. The process is the same whether you are replacing a worn set or installing a themed PBT or MOA set.

The two failure points are pulling caps at an angle and pressing new caps down too hard. This guide walks through the full process in order, with the checkpoint that matters at each stage so you do not bend a stem or crack a housing.

Before you pull anything: prep and tools

Unplug the keyboard or switch it off and disconnect Bluetooth and the 2.4GHz receiver so a stray keypress cannot register while you work. Clear a flat surface and keep a small container for the old caps so they stay in row order. You need a wire keycap puller, and a switch puller only if you also plan to change switches.

Check what stem type your board uses before buying caps. Most Attack Shark mechanical keyboards use standard MX-style stems, but the X87 ULTRA and X87 ULTRA with coiled cable add hot-swappable sockets, which means you can replace switches as well as caps. If you are unsure, pull one cap from a corner key first and look at the stem shape.

• Photograph the board before you start so you can rebuild the layout correctly.
• Keep stabilizer keys (spacebar, Shift, Enter, Backspace) until last.

Step 1: Pull caps straight up, one at a time

Slide the wire puller under the cap so both wires sit under opposite corners, then pull straight up with steady pressure. Do not rock the cap side to side. Angled pulls are the main cause of bent switch stems and stretched cap stems, and they are also how people scratch the top plate.

For long keys with stabilizers, pull evenly from both ends rather than from the center. The spacebar and both Shift keys need the most care because the stabilizer wire can pop out if one side lifts before the other.

• If a cap resists, stop and reposition the puller instead of pulling harder.
• Work in rows so you can track which caps came from where.

Step 2: Inspect stems and clean while the board is bare

With the caps off, check each switch stem for bends or wobble. A bent stem will make the new cap sit crooked and feel mushy, so replace that switch now rather than after you reassemble. This is also the easiest moment to brush out dust and crumbs from the top plate.

If your board has hot-swappable sockets, this is when you would swap switches. The X87 ULTRA and the X87 ULTRA with coiled cable both support hot-swap, so you can change feel without soldering. Boards without hot-swap sockets require desoldering, which is a different job entirely.

• Use compressed air at a distance rather than a cloth that can snag on stems.
• Do not push down on stems while cleaning; they are not designed for vertical load.

Step 3: Install the new caps and seat them flat

Line the cap up over the stem and press down with one firm, even push until you feel it seat. You should not need heavy force. If a cap will not go on, check that you have not flipped it or grabbed a cap with a different stem profile, then try again.

Install in rows and keep the profile consistent. Mixing profiles across a row changes the typing angle and feels wrong within a few minutes. For MOA keycaps installation, note that the uniform spherical shape sits higher and wider than most stock sets, so give yourself a few minutes to adjust before deciding it is not for you.

• Press on the center of the cap, not the edge, to avoid cracking the stem.
• Seat all four corners of long keys before pressing down.

Step 4: Reinstall stabilizer keys last and test

Hook the stabilizer wire into the inserts on the cap, then press the cap down over the switch stem and both stabilizer stems at once. Press the spacebar and both Shift keys several times to confirm they return cleanly and do not rattle or stick.

Once everything is seated, reconnect and test every key. A quick way is to open a text field and run your fingers across each row, then check the modifier cluster individually. Any key that feels flat, wobbly, or silent is not fully seated.

• If a key sticks, lift the cap and check that the stabilizer wire is seated in its clip.
• Re-test after 10 minutes of typing; a partially seated cap often works loose.

Keycap swap checklist

1. Power down and disconnect: Turn the board off and remove the 2.4GHz receiver or Bluetooth pairing so no keystroke registers mid-pull. Checkpoint: the board is fully off before the first cap comes up.
2. Pull straight up with a wire puller: Seat both wires under opposite corners and pull vertically. Reposition rather than pulling harder if a cap resists. Common mistake: rocking the cap side to side and bending the switch stem.
3. Inspect and clean the bare board: Look for bent or wobbly stems and brush out debris. Replace switches now if your board has hot-swap sockets. Checkpoint: every stem is straight before new caps go on.
4. Seat new caps in rows: Press down on the center of each cap until it sits flat. Keep one profile per row, especially with MOA or PBT sets. Common mistake: pressing on the cap edge and cracking the stem.
5. Finish stabilizer keys and test: Install spacebar, Shift, Enter, and Backspace last, then type across every row and check each modifier individually. Next step: if a key feels flat or sticks, lift it and reseat before assuming a switch fault.

Attack Shark boards this process applies to

• ATTACK SHARK X87 ULTRA Wireless Mechanical Keyboard With 8K Wireless Receiver: Triple-mode connectivity (Bluetooth, 2.4GHz, wired), dual 8K transmission on 2.4GHz and wired, and an 8K wireless receiver with latency as low as 0.125ms. Because it is wireless, switch it off and disconnect the receiver before pulling caps so a keypress cannot register while you work.
• ATTACK SHARK X87 ULTRA Wireless Gaming Keyboard with 8KHz Receiver and RGB Coiled Cable: Supports Bluetooth, 2.4G wireless, and wired connections, with 8KHz polling on 2.4G and wired modes, and a hot-swappable socket for easy switch replacement. The hot-swap socket means you can replace a bent switch during the keycap swap instead of reassembling and living with a crooked cap.
• ATTACK SHARK R98 HE Carbon Fiber Wired Rapid Trigger Magnetic Switch Keyboard With C01 Ultra RGB Coiled Cable: Wired keyboard built around magnetic switches with rapid trigger, carbon fiber styling, and the C01 Ultra RGB coiled cable included, in Black, Moonlight, Ink Shade, and Ice Ninja. Magnetic switch boards still accept standard caps, but pull straight up as always; the rapid trigger tuning is in the switch, not the cap, so a swap does not change it.
• ATTACK SHARK X65 PRO HE Wireless Rapid Trigger Keyboard Magnetic Switch: Actuation point adjustable from 0.1mm to 3.4mm in 0.01mm increments with 0.01mm break, and an 8000Hz polling rate. If a key feels off after a swap, check the cap is seated before touching actuation settings; the adjustment range is precise enough that a loose cap can feel like a tuning problem.

A keycap swap is reversible and low-risk as long as you pull straight up and press straight down. Take it one row at a time, keep the stabilizer keys for last, and test the whole board before you call it done.